Behold the humble tamale, an object lesson in not judging a book by its cover.

Soul Food: South of the border style

By: Angela Cooper-McCorkle

Posted: 3/12/10

Two carboard tacos, limp fries, a greasy cheese-burger and a pop- if you buy the hype, this is your idea of a good Mexi-merican meal for $5- but if you are willing to think outside the 'Box,' you can feast on authentic south-of-the-border soul food for about the same price.

At Panderia La Gloria, a ramshackle looking exterior conceals sumpremely authentic and homey tamale emporium. If you're willing to elbow your way past racks overflowing with fragrant but characteristically dry rolls and cookies, a plain white paper list taped to the counter humbly advertises half a dozen varieties of that most portable and hearty of Mexican meals-to-go, the tamale.

Embedded in a thick casing of masa (fine ground corn and lime, shortening, and stock) will be your choice of marinated pork, tomatillo-infused chicken, or mole. Vegetarians will delight to see a veggie tamale (filled with three kinds of peppers and cheese) on the menu, and for the kids, mildly sweet pineapple and strawberry tamales are made fresh daily.

After perusing the blessedly short menu, place your order; 2 tamales per person is enough for most non-lumberjacks/extreme cage fighters.

Whatever you do, don't leave the shop without a mini-loaf of jalapeno-cheese bread. The toasty, golden loaves, filled with a creamy mixure of cream-cheese and medium-spicy jalapenos, glisten with eggwash and are sprinkled with sesame seeds. Just tell yourself the jalapenos count as the vegetable in this meal, and you can almost imagine it is a well-balanced repast.

Finally, fill up a cup with your choice of horchata (sweet rice-milk), or agua fresca (fresh fruit juice and sugar blends) from the industrial-sized coolers to the left of the door. These refreshing, all-natural sips of summer will help kill the hurts-so-good burning in your throat if you voted for the cheese or pork tamales. Take home your paper and foil wrapped treasures and enjoy a little Southern comfort, Mexican-style.

The tamales look like nothing special in their loosely wrapped tan cornhusks, but they taste like home. If you aren't from Mexico... you'll wish you were. Strip off the husks to reveal the steaming masa and take a bite: the slightly salty, tender dough will yield to the toothsome shredded filling. If you enjoy letting the heat build, try to finish off that first tamale sans drink. If you're not so masochistic, keep your cup close at hand.

Alternate with slices of jalapeno bread and perhaps a gingerbread pig or other unique confection to finish and I know you'll be saying "gracias, Gloria!"

Price Check

Tamales: $1.25 each
Jalapeno-cheese bread: $1.50
Horchata or agua fresca: $1.00 16 oz.
Cookie: $0.15 - $1.00

Panderia La Gloria
2120 Broadway Avenue